Both seem like viable options. I may start with a cardboard template and see how close I can get it without screwing up the level too much…then move on to option 2. That might reduce a lot of the extra grinding needed to make it smooth after I fill any gaps with filler.SheffSmoker wrote: ↑July 1st, 2022, 9:50 am
1. If you want a perfect fit, make a cardboard template that matches the tank profile, then mark that onto the legs and grind the profile in. Risk with this is the tank will not be level after unless you start from a datum point on all 4 legs.
2. Gradually fill the gap with pass after pass of weld on the CC until it meets the leg.
Thanks DT…appreciate the encouragement!Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 1st, 2022, 10:03 amMaking some great progress! Keep at it as it looks really good.
Thank you Pete…I thought so, but good to hear. As soon as I get the fit-up between CC and cart where I want it, next thing I’m gonna do is burn it out.
Thank you sir!Eric_Tuell wrote: ↑July 24th, 2022, 4:37 pmBuild looks good
And thank you for the kind words!
Big T wrote: ↑October 3rd, 2022, 3:18 pmI make my top cut 1" past TDC, once you add a flange on the door you don't have to worry about any rainwater getting inside the CC. I like the bottom of the door to be 1'' below the 3 oclock position so that my bottom cooking grate is at the widest point of the CC. As for the fire box door, you could probably cut it down to 1'' and there not be any issues but it may be wise to put a brace of some sort across the 1'' strip. I have saw a few guys that got the fire too hot and warped their doors so the small strip may try to distort a little. I frame my fire box with 1.5'' angle iron and add rails for my ash pan and never have any issues.
Thanks man! Seems like I'm adapting and adjusting as I go along...but I'm thinking I want the bottom of the door cut just low enough to allow the rack to slide out - and I'll probably add a pull of some kind to the top of the rack.Dirtytires wrote: ↑October 4th, 2022, 10:46 amYep....what Big T said!
Just a note on the bottom shelf...The goal is to have the top of the shelf at dead center so it is as big as possible. I frame my shelves with 1" angle so make the bottom door cut 1" below center. If you are going to use the bottom lip of the shelf for the "pull", instead of adding a pull on the top of the shelf, you might want to add another inch clearance so you don't smash your fingers every time you slide a drawer back in.